Italian Home-style Cooking at Broccolini’s

Eating at Broccolini's is a bit like dropping in on somebody's old, Italian grandmother who had no idea you were coming but adeptly retreats into the kitchen and throws together a wonderful meal out of the most basic of ingredients. Elegant, fine dining it's not, but that doesn't take away one bit of appeal from this rustic, downtown restaurant.

Meals begin with bread crisps and a sun-dried tomato spread that has the texture and taste of a cannelloni bean dip rather than its actual cream cheese component. Appetizers include four-cheese polenta ($8.50), mussels al salto (red or white sauce, $8.95), and stuffed mushrooms ($6.95). There are also several salads, such as arugula ($5.95), tricolore ($5.95), and a Caesar with blackened chicken or tilapia ($17.50).

While Broccolini's entrée menu features several pre-set dishes, much is left to the patron to decide. Chicken ($16.95) or veal ($18.95) can be ordered al la carte in a number of cooking styles: marsala, piccata, francese, or parmesan. There are two different Shakespearean-themed surf and turf options, Chicken and Shrimp Romeo ($19.95) or Veal and Shrimp Juliet ($20.95). Alternatively, diners can order the grigliata, which is a choice of six toppings over grilled chicken ($16.95), steak ($18.95), pork chop ($17.95), shrimp ($18.95), or catch of the day (market price). Last but not least, the catch of the day can be grilled, blackened, or sautéed, also with a choice of toppings. Basically, this mix-and-match menu guarantees you can have your dinner served up virtually any way you want it.

The Italian eatery also offers a number of northern Italian pastas, including penne tartufate in a truffle cream sauce ($15.95), potato gnocchi amatriciana ($14.95), risotto pescatora ($18.95), and a dish named after itself, rigatoni broccolini ($13.95). Whole wheat versions can be ordered for an additional dollar.

Regardless of which pasta or protein preparation you choose, it's hard to go wrong with Broccolini's home-style cooking. I'm not sure if there is an old, Italian grandmother in the kitchen, but whoever is back there certainly knows what they're doing. The fried calamari ($8.95) was lightly battered, crisp, and tender, and the delicious homemade pasta of the Rollata ($15.95) was filled with an enticing blend of four (!) meats (sausage, cappacola, sopressata, and veal) plus broccoli, rolled up like a strudel, covered with mushrooms and sauce, baked, and sliced. There is nothing quite like fresh pasta, and Broccolini's certainly shines in this inspiring dish.

Another satisfying main course is the lasagna-esque Veal Sorrento ($19.95), a tower of a meal in which veal scallopine is layered with prosciutto, thick slices of eggplant, fresh tomatoes, and mozzarella cheese and then baked in a light, white wine tomato sauce.

The dessert menu changes daily, but one of the regular items on the list is Tiramisu ($5.95), which has a thick layer of cream on top of ladyfingers dripping with sweet liquor.

Not everything at Broccolini's is as top drawer as the chef's flavors and chunky sauces however. The plating often looks like a dumping ground, and the main components are smothered in toppings which lean toward the salty side. For example, it would have been interesting to see the cross-section of the Rollata, which was served side-up, but alas was hidden underneath a sea of cream sauce. The restaurant's décor also is a bit worn down, and a cold draft can get trapped in the main dining room. Not to mention that the soft music being piped in sometimes has to compete with random noise coming from the upstairs tenants.

Despite these flaws, there are certainly a lot of things to like about Broccolini's, the first of which is the food. The service is attentive, the space can accommodate large groups, the BYO is happy to uncork your bottles, and the portions are monstrous—easily leaving you with a tasty plate of leftovers. While it might not be the prettiest food, it just might be the closest Italian home-cooking in New Jersey.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Broccolini's Restaurant & Catering

91 Park Avenue, Madison

(973) 408-9148

Hours of Operation:

Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 am-2:30 pm

Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5-9:30 pm

Dinner, Friday and Saturday, 5-10 pm

Dinner, Sunday, 4-8 pm

BYO. Take-out, children's menu, and catering available.

All major credit cards accepted.